Free Fitted Face Mask Sewing Pattern

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With demands on healthcare facilities and workers growing daily during the COVID-19 Pandemic, PPE supplies are rapidly hitting critical low levels throughout the US.

In times of emergency, when all compliant supplies have been exhausted, the CDC allows fabric masks to be used. Learn more about CDC Guidelines Here. Sewists can work together to help boost the supply during this critical time.

Disclaimer: While wearing a homemade face mask may not prevent someone from catching Covid-19, it can decrease the spread of large particles when someone who is infected sneezes or coughs.

You should wash and sterilize your face mask before and after use. Use a color safe bleach such as Clorox 2 in hot water. If you are inserting a disposable liner, remember to remove and discard the liner before laundering.

This fitted face mask pattern includes four sizes: X-Small (ages 3-6 years), Small (ages 7-12), Medium (teens and women) and Large (men). This mask is lined and has an opening to allow you to insert additional filtering material if you wish. A good filter insert would be a non-woven fabric or material. I used a coffee filter which was light weight, so it was easier to breath while adding an extra layer of filtration.

Download the Stitchwerx Designs Fitted Face Mask Pattern here.

Materials & Supplies

  • Main Fabric: Tightly woven cotton (such as quilter’s cotton)- 7 x 14”, prewashed
  • Lining Fabric: Tightly woven cotton (such as quilter’s cotton)- 7 x 14”, prewashed
  • Non-woven light weight fusible interfacing- 7 x 14” (Heat n Bond or Pellon)
  • 16” of 1/4” flat elastic (14″ for kid’s sizes)
  • Sewing machine
  • Thread
  • Scissors
  • Water soluble fabric marker
  • Iron
  • Safety Pin
  • Bendable nose piece (optional)

Before You Sew

  • Prewash and dry fabric.
  • Use Adobe Reader to print pattern page. Print at 100%, No Scaling. Measure the gauge box on the pattern page. It should measure 1 inch.
  • Seam allowance is 3/8”.

Construction

Face mask pattern pieces cut out
Cut outer fabric, interfacing and lining as indicated on pattern pieces.
Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of outer fabric pieces.
Place outer fabric pieces right sides together and stitch center line. Repeat with lining fabric pieces.

Clip curves. Press seam to one side. (Same for outer and lining sections).

Top stitch 1/8” away from each side of the center line seam. (Same for outer and lining sections).
Fold left and right edges of lining on the fold line to the wrong side, tucking the raw edges under. Press.
Stitch vertically close to the folded edge to hold in place.
Place outer fabric and lining right sides together, matching centers. Sew together at top and bottom edges. Side edges are open.

Note: the outer fabric should be extending 1” beyond the lining at the left and right edges.

Turn right side out. Press. Note: press down the raw edge of the outer layer along the seam allowance line where it extends beyond the lining.
Top stitch 1/8” from edge at top and bottom.
To make the casing for the elastic, fold raw edge of each side of outer layer 1/4” to the wrong side, then fold again so the folded edge meets the folded edge of the lining.
Stitch in place vertically, very close to the edge. Leave the top and bottom open so you can insert the elastic.
Cut 2 pieces of elastic 8” long (7″ for kid’s sizes). Pin a small safety pin to one end of the elastic to help you insert elastic into the casing. Do this on each side.

Bring elastic ends together overlapping the edges about 1/4” and stitch together. I tacked first by hand, then stitched again with the machine using a zig zag stitch. Sorry I missed taking a picture of this step! Note: Be sure to turn the elastic ends toward the lining, so it will loop over the ears when sewn together.

Slide the elastic until the seam is hidden inside the casing.

Optional Bendable Nose Piece

You can use bendable flat jewelry wire, florist wire or even a pipe cleaner to make a nose piece. If you use wire, bend the ends in so they’re not sharp. I had some old painting masks, so I was able to cut the bendable nose pieces off those to use on these new masks.

To make a pocket for the nose piece, mark the width of your nose piece (mine was 3”) on each side, with a small dot 3/8” from the top edge. Start at the top edge even with one of your dots, sew down 3/8” to the dot. When you reach the dot, pivot, then continue sewing a line parallel to the top edge until you reach the other dot.
Insert the nose piece from the open side.
Once you have the nose piece inserted, sew the open end from the top edge down to the dot. This will hold your nose piece in place.

If you like this pattern, please share using #stitchwerxfacemask on Facebook and Instagram! Be sure to tag us too! Thanks for using this Stitchwerx Designs pattern! Happy Sewing!

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36 Responses to Free Fitted Face Mask Sewing Pattern

  1. Donna Bretthauer says:

    Thank you so much for posting the face mask pattern.

  2. Jan Corlett says:

    Thank you so much! Your information and pattern was simple to download without some additional driver I didn’t want. Your instructions are great. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

  3. Marie says:

    This pattern IS THE BEST!!!! The instructions as well. Thank you . Marie

  4. Barbara says:

    I can’t find the interfacing material anywhere. Can I omit it?

    • Kim says:

      Hi, I know supplies are really getting hard to find as many people are making masks! The nonwoven interfacing does give extra filtration, but if you can’t find any, you could make it without or you could use cotton fabric instead of interfacing.

  5. Judy says:

    Thanks so much for the clear instructions! Due to impetigo behind ears from surgical-mask-elastic i’ve been brainstorming trying to figure out an alternative to elastic. For the mask part, which i hope to sew if i get the chance, i found a Tshirt in my rag-bin that’s ultra-thin-fabric (a bit like modal). And also found thin-bendable styrofoam for nosepiece. I.E. the type that’s used as cushioning inside knapsack straps.

    • Pam Spencer says:

      I have made a couple masks and didn’t want the elastic behind the ears (I have heard that alot of healthcare workers find it irritating to the ears). Instead I cut my elastic 29″ and made a big circle with it so it goes behind the head and seems to stay put really well.

      • Kim says:

        Yes, that’s a great idea! My elastic is in short supply, so I went with the behind the ear option. I’ve seen some people wearing headbands with buttons on the side to hold the elastic instead of putting it around the ears.

      • Judy says:

        Thanks!

    • Vicky says:

      I used one continuous piece of ribbon to avoid elastic pulling on the ears. Roughly 28″ weeks for me. Place safety pin on ribbon. Feed from bottom to top, through the tube on one side of the mask. Then pull over towards the other side and feed top to bottom through the other tube. When placing the mask on the face, slip the large loop of ribbon (t-shirt yarn, shoe lace, paracord, etc.) over the top of the head and tie the open ends near the base of the skull. I hope that helps!

      • Kim says:

        Thanks Vicky! That’s a great idea. I just made a couple of masks for my nephew with ties instead of the elastic. He has to wear his mask for a full work shift and the elastic was bothering him!

        • Mary Stevens says:

          I find it is easier if you lay the elastic down before you sew the final seam where the elastic will go through. Then you don’t need to try and run it through with a safety pin.

    • Dervel says:

      You can make Ear Savers https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ear-savers

      to save your ears or use strings instead and tie the mask behind your head. Instead of inserting elastics, make four long straps and tie behind your head. you could also sew these if you don’t knit or corchet.

  6. Dolly says:

    Thank you very much for the free face mask pattern
    It is really very easy to make and fun. The instructions are right on point.

    Thank you!

  7. Sarah says:

    Can you wash it once the nose piece is in? Won’t metal rust?
    I keep wondering this…
    Thanks so much.

    • Kim says:

      Hi, I have washed mine several times. I suppose over a long time you might get erosion or rust depending on what you use. I’m thinking it would take quite a while for that to happen.

      • Vicky says:

        Yes, pipe cleaners especially will rust after washing and don’t tolerate hot water or the dryer well. You could sew a piece of small bias tape or folded tube of fabric to either side of the mask to make the nose piece removable before laundering.

    • Dervel says:

      Instead of sewing it in, you could leave one end opened and take it out before washing. You could also use a piece of bias tape or material to make a separate pocket for your wire to easily remove wire before washing.
      this is the best fitted mask pattern ever.

  8. Linda says:

    Your photos and instructions are gorgeous! So thorough and easy-to-understand. Making some today!!!!!

  9. RhoniAnn says:

    Thank you for the pattern and instructions. Question, is the 16″ of elastic the same for all 4 sizes?

    • Kim says:

      Hi RhoniAnn, Thanks for the question! I recently updated the instructions to indicate 14″ elastic for the child sizes. I found that worked a little better for the two smaller sizes.

  10. Patty says:

    Thanks for your instructions. The easiest I’ve seen anywhere.mi will definitely use it. Just wish I had found it before I cut 15 of the pleated mask. I don’t sell them! I give them away. Over 00 given away so far.

  11. Elizabeth Steele says:

    These are fantastic! Thank you so much for sharing the pattern! I was able to make 2 for all five people in our family in one afternoon. The fact that the different sizes are provided is a life saver!
    When the interfacing I ordered arrives in a few days I’ll be making additional masks for our local healthcare workers.

    Thank you!!

  12. Libby S says:

    Hi there. Thank you so much for this pattern. I’m NOT an experienced seamstress but I was able to complete one and am working on my second. No my stitches aren’t perfect but I was impressed. I wanted to let you know that the web site that is on the downloaded pattern is incorrect. The pattern say stitchwerxdesigns instead of stitchwerx.net . It took me a bit to find you again!

    • Kim says:

      Hi Libby,
      Thanks so much! I can’t believe I put that across the pattern pieces! It is correct everywhere else in the pattern & I’ve updated with a corrected PDF. I work on a couple websites besides my own & they’re .coms! My brain must have been overloaded when I did that!

  13. Gloria says:

    Muchas gracias por el molde y las instrucciones precisas para hacer la máscara.

  14. Diane says:

    I keep trying to open to get the pattern and it tells me not found. can you help please

  15. Becky Halfmann says:

    I need the pattern

  16. Sorina Uys says:

    Can you please sent me the pattern.
    Thanks

  17. Gloria says:

    Hi! Thanks so much for this wonderful pattern, You made this pattern very easy to follow. However, the pattern is supposed to have an opening for the filter but when I finished , there was no opening for that. Please help. Thank you!

    • Kim says:

      Hi Gloria,
      The opening is on each side. Look down through the pictures in the tutorial and you’ll see that it is open. You don’t sew it closed on each side, you leave that open so you can insert your filter. Thanks!

  18. Cathy Hood says:

    Thank you so much for this pattern. I have made over 200 of them. Your directions are great.
    I used a strip of tee shirt for the ties. Cut 1 inch across the shirt and cut once to make a long strip. Stretch and the fabric curls. Makes great soft ties. I also used aluminum electric fence wire for the nose pieces. I use needle nose pliers to bend the ends in. It is light weight and will not rust.

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