Frozen Inspired Part One: Snow Princess Anna Dress, Free Templates + A Giveaway!


Frozen Inspired Princess Anna Dress, Cape & HatFor the past several years I have made my dear granddaughter a princess dress for Halloween & her birthday (which follows in December). Now I have two dear granddaughters, so this year it’s two princess dresses!

Like so many, we have been inspired by the recent “Frozen” movie. Going along with that, my post today is about creating your own Snow Princess Anna-Inspired Dress. We also have some goodies for you, so be sure to read all the way through!!

Princess Anna DressI used the Princess Party Dress Pattern by Mandy K Designs as the base for both my princess dresses this year. I love this pattern for several reasons:

  • Sizes 12 months to 12 years
  • Clear instructions with plenty of photos
  • Easy to sew
  • Easy to alter for different princess looks
  • Elastic back for longer wear/easy fit

Princess Anna DressMandy K Designs is having a Limited Time Sale on this pattern of only $5 now through September 30, 2014.  You can purchase that here: Princess Party Dress Pattern.


Anna Dress motif templatesFor this dress, I wanted to use Scandinavian Motifs on the bodice and skirt similar to those on the dress Anna wears in the movie, so I drew my own. There are outline and full color versions. These are FREE (yes, FREE) templates for your personal use. Please don’t take my artwork and resell it!
Here are links to download these FREE FILES (individually) in PNG format:

Here is a link to download these FREE FILES, PNG Format (compressed into one ZIP File):

Even though these are designed to fit the Princess Party Dress Pattern, they could be used with just about any dress pattern. I used my Silhouette Cameo Software and ink jet printer to print the color motifs onto iron-on sheets for dark fabric, then cut them with my Cameo cutter.
Anna Dress Front Bodice MotifThis iron-on stuff can be a bit tricky to use, but you will have good results if you take your time and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. I practiced on some scrap fabric first. You could also use the outline versions to cut stencil templates instead of doing the iron-ons.

Anna Dress back constructionSince Anna’s dress has a black vest over a blouse, I wanted to recreate this look with my dress. This meant altering the pattern just a bit. It was very easy to do: I cut black shoulder straps and stitched those onto the top section of the dress on the front and back. To complete the vest look, I used 1/2″ wide metallic gold ribbon as trim.


Anna has a lovely hat and cape she wears to keep her warm in the Scandinavian winter weather. Our Snow Princess look would not be complete without these!

Princess Anna Cape & HatI used one of my own pattern designs, the S138 Joyce Ann Bonnet, to make my Scandinavian Style Snow Princess Hat. This pattern comes in 8 sizes to fit heads 15″ up to 22.75″. It has three views (a bonnet with two brims styles, and a fur-brim cap similar to Anna’s). The fur-brim version (View C in the pattern) worked perfectly for the Nordic Winter Cap look I wanted.

Princess Anna Cape & HatI used my pattern, the S139 Traveler Cape, to sew the cape for my outfit. This cape comes in 5 sizes to fit 12M to 10Y. I added the pom pom fringe around the shoulder cap and some cute little heart buttons for a finishing touch.

Princess Anna Hat & CapeToday through Tuesday, September 30, 2014, you can purchase the Hat & Cape Pattern Bundle for $10 (35% savings off the individually priced patterns) in the Stitchwerx Designs Etsy Shop.  These patterns are not just for making a Snow Princess Costume, you’ll get good use from them making garments for everyday wear.


Princess Anna BootsDownload the Boot Motif Template to stencil your own Anna-style Scandinavian Boots. You can transform plain black boots using the FREE Scandinavian Boot Motif Template and metallic gold paint or pen.

Princess Anna BootsMy granddaughter has tiny size 4 feet, so I decided to make boots for her. I am still working on grading and releasing a boot sewing pattern. I’ll be sure to post all about it once it comes to fruition!


Frozen Inspired Ice Castle Photo backdropWe had a great time photographing the girls in their Frozen Inspired Princess Costumes. I LOVE this Frozen Ice Castle Photo Backdrop from Artful Life Designs! It is available for purchase in sizes ranging from 3′ x 3′ up to 5′ x 7′. This is the perfect photo back drop for any “Frozen Inspired” Birthday Party, Event or Photo Shoot!

Princess Anna DressIt’s exhausting being a Snow Princess!


Princess Anna Trick or Treat Tote BagNo Snow Princess Costume would be complete without a Trick-or-Treat Tote Bag. I modified my FREE One Simple Tote Tutorial (by adding ruffles) to make quick and easy Frozen Inspired Trick- or-Treat Tote Bags.


Yes, there is a Giveaway with TWO LUCKY WINNERS!

Prize Package (one set for each winner):

The Contest Rules:

  • You must be 18 to enter.
  • You can gain entries by entering the Rafflecopter Prompts.
  • Giveaway ends: 9/14/2014 at 11:59 p.m. EDT
  • Two winners will be chosen and announced on 9/15/2014.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Thanks for stopping by and getting “Frozen Inspired” with Stitchwerx Designs and Mandy K Designs!

Ice Princess Face PaintingDon’t miss Part Two in our series which will be live tomorrow:
Frozen Inspired Part Two-Ice Princess Elsa Dress.

Posted in Baby Clothes Patterns, Children, Giveaways, Kids Clothes Patterns, Sewing, Sewing Patterns | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 33 Comments

One Simple Tote-Free Reversible Tote Bag Tutorial


Camo Tote BagI recently made this camo tote for a friend’s birthday. My hubby makes excellent wine, so our gift was several bottles of wine in this camo tote. Our friend loves Joe’s wine and is a real outdoorsman, so this went over really well! Of course, you can use this pattern to make all sorts of reversible totes in varying sizes and fabrics.

Floral/Chevron toteHere is a Floral/Chevron Tote I made (with added pockets) using fabric I had in my stash. I love the way it turned out. Because it’s lined, it’s reversible. I still haven’t decided which way I like the best! Instructions for adding pockets are below (after the original tote instructions).

The measurements given below make a tote 10″ Wide x 3.5″ Deep x 14″ Tall. You can easily change the dimensions to make a tote exactly the size you want.

My formula for getting the measurements:

Fabric Width: tote width+tote depth+1″(seam allowances)= fabric width (outside & lining fabrics).

Fabric Height: (2x tote height)+tote depth+1″(seam allowances)= fabric height (outside & lining fabrics).

Facing band: (2x tote width)+(2x tote depth) + 1″(seam allowances)= facing band width. Facing band height is 2″ tall.


camo tote suppliesThe best fabrics for your tote are heavier woven cottons such as Duck, Twill, Denim or Corduroy. 100% Quilting Cotton will work as a lining or both outside and in, but I would recommend using an interfacing to give your tote more strength if you use lighter weight fabrics.

I used 1″ wide Nylon Webbing for my handles on the Camo Tote, but you could make fabric handles if you like that look better.


Grainline runs with the Height.
Outside Fabric:
Cut 1 piece 14.5″ wide x 32″ tall.
Cut 1 piece 28″ wide x 2″ tall.

Lining Fabric:
Cut 1 piece 14.5″ wide x 32″ tall.

Cut 2 pieces of 1″ wide Nylon Webbing 19″ long.


Seam Allowance is 1/2″.

camo tote constructionFold Outside Fabric in half right sides together, stitch each side.

camo tote constructionPull the bag open and lay flat with one side seam centered as shown in photo. Use a fabric pen to draw a straight line across right where it is 3.5″ wide.

camo tote constructionPlace a couple of pins to hold it and stitch across on that line. Do the same on the other side.

camo tote constructionThis is what it should look like from the bottom.

camo tote constructionI pressed mine under and flat like this.

Repeat all these steps using the Lining Fabric.

camo tote constructionPlace the lining into the outside so they are WRONG SIDES TOGETHER. Baste the outside and lining sections together at the top raw edges about 1/4″ from top edge.

camo tote constructionTake the long fabric strip (this is the top facing) and press one long raw edge under 1/2″ to the wrong side.

camo tote constructionStitch the strip right sides together on short side. Make sure you unfold where you pressed it under on the long edge when you sew here.

camo tote constructionPress that short seam open.

camo tote constructionPin one nylon strap to one side of your tote at the top edge. I placed mine so each outside edge of the strap was about 3″ from the side of the tote. The important thing is to make sure the handles are centered. Repeat with the remaining strap for the other side.

camo tote constructionBaste these in place 3/8″ from top edge.

camo tote constructionPlace the Facing Band right sides together with the outside of the tote, aligning the top raw edges and the facing seam with one tote side seam. Make sure you place the Facing so the UNPRESSED EDGE is at the top. Pin in place all around. The nylon straps are sandwiched between the facing and the tote. Stitch in place all the way around.

camo tote constructionFold the Facing up and to the inside of the tote, folding that facing pressed edge under. I like to press the top edge of the tote here too so you get a crisper edge.

camo tote constructionPin in place, then stitch facing down as shown.

camo tote constructionI used one row of stitching about 1/8″ from top edge and another row 3/4″ from the top edge.

Your One Simple Tote is Complete!


How About Outside Pockets? Here’s How:
I wanted my outside pockets 9″ tall. The width of my outside fabric for this tote is 14.5″ wide, so that is the width I want to cut my pocket. For the height, I used this formula: (2x Pocket Height) + Tote Bottom Width + Pocket Hem.  So that would be (2×9)+3.5+1= 22.5″. So to have 9″ tall pockets on each side of my tote, I cut my pocket fabric 14.5″ wide x 22.5″ tall.

tote outside pocket constructionPress the raw edge of your pocket fabric (on the 14.5″ side) under to the wrong side 1/4″, then fold again 1/4″ and press. Top stitch this down a scant 1/4″ from the edge. Do this on each end.

tote outside pocket constructionFind the center of your outside fabric by folding in half. Draw a line with a fabric pen to mark the center. This mark shows the center of the BOTTOM of your tote.  Fold your pocket fabric and mark the center of it the same way.

Place the pocket fabric on top of the outside fabric both RIGHT SIDES UP aligning the center marks. Pin on each side and baste pocket fabric to outside fabric about 1/4″ from each edge.

The bottom of your tote is 3.5″, so you want to add stitching along each side to keep your pocket in place (and keep things from sliding through to the bottom).

tote outside pocket constructionLay your fabric out flat and measure 1.75″ from each side of the bottom center mark. Draw lines with a fabric marker.  Stitch across on these lines.

tote outside pocket constructionThis will give you stitching 3.5″ apart right along the bottom edge of your tote.

tote outside pocket constructionIf you would like to divide one or both sides of your pockets vertically, mark where you would want that with a fabric pen, then stitch it down. I stitched a divider line on one pocket to make a smaller compartment for a water bottle or other goodies I might be toting!

Now you can proceed with making your tote per the normal directions.

Want an Inside Pocket? Let’s do it!
Adding an inside pocket is also pretty simple. First decide how big you want your inside pocket. I wanted one 6″ wide x 5″ tall. I added 1/2 all around for the seam allowance and top hem which means I cut my inside pocket fabric 7″ wide x 6″ tall.

inside pocket constructionHem the top edge by pressing under 1/4″ then 1/4′ again, then top stitch a scant 1/4″ from the edge. I like to make mitered corners on my pockets so this is how I did my other three sides.
inside pocket constructionMark a dot in each bottom corner 1/2″ from each edge.

inside pocket constructionFold the bottom corner to the wrong side right on this dot and press.  Unfold and you will see the line where your pressed it.

inside pocket constructionFold right sides together as shown and sew across that line. Make sure you back stitch to hold it in place.

inside pocket constructionTrim the seam allowance close to the stitching. Do this on each bottom corner.

inside pocket constructionNow press the 1/2″ seam allowance to the wrong side (you will pop that stitched corner right side out as your turn the seam allowance).

inside pocket constructionPin your pocket to your tote lining where you would like it. Remember there is a facing that folds down 1″ to the inside, so don’t place it up too high. I centered mine horizontally (by marking the centers and aligning). Vertically, I placed it so it would be 2″ from the finished top edge (2.5″ from the top raw edge). Stitch close to the 3 pocket edges to hold it in place.

This is the point where I noticed I cut my chevron fabric a tad crooked (Drat!), but I did not have enough to recut, so my tote is {slightly} imperfect! Oh, well, I love it anyway!

Now you can proceed to make your tote per the normal directions.

Finishedfloraltote2-500pxfloraltoteinsideviewHere are some other views of my finished floral/chevron tote with both outside and inside pockets.

One Simple tote Free TutorialThis is a great base pattern to create a variety of totes. Not only can you add pockets (inside and out), you can also add embroidery or other embellishments to create your own one-of-a-kind tote! If you make a tote with this tutorial, I would love to see! Please feel free to share your finished project photos on my Stitchwerx Designs Facebook Page!

Happy Sewing!

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Posted in Accessories, Free Patterns, Sewing, Sewing Patterns, Tutorials | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments